Pilgrimage

The pilgrimage is a voyage taken to meditate and renew our spiritual life. Long ago, the chieftains of tribes defied the wild ocean surfing on a long wooden board. Thus, they proved their power before their people. Now the ocean calls me. It was Ohau island which attracted me in particular. The contrast between its North Shore and South Shore is almost unimaginable. The North one evokes in me associations with the myth or the legend. It is both appealing and uncanny. I stand in awe. When I feel favourable waves and all my equipment under control, I jump into the water without any hesitation. My heart beats madly. It feels so good that I am on the verge of forgetting where I am. Is it a dream or am I really among the greatest whom I have admired so much for their courage?